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Old 10-20-2008, 08:23 PM   #11
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Besides the directional changes increase the speed at which you walk, zig zag around poles, trees, etc. at a quick walk or better yet a run and lastly, don't talk; say the heel command once in a while but let the dog learn to LOOK AT YOU to get direction instead of listening for the command. If the dog is looking at you instead of distracted to his/her surroundings they will quickly pick up on the heeling and be less inclined to bolt towards every person you meet.
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Old 10-20-2008, 09:51 PM   #12
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I use the change direction method with my dogs. the collar I use depends on the dogs. my shelties are soft tempermented and only need a regular collar. the dobes and standard poodle I have trained required the use of the prong with the change direrection method eventually they were changed to a regular chocker which is what the guide dog school prefers.
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:06 PM   #13
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had the same problem until recently!

hi....lucy was a lead puller....big style...

she is still bouncy when she meets new people, dogs etc but clicker training with treats worked really well for her and she is much better. i also found her training easier off leash first (in a safe area obviously) and then transferred what she had learnt to on leash.

you will also find that puppy will settle down with age...lucy calmed down loads after her first season and my black lab was almost 2 and half years old before he lost his puppiness.

kindness, firm commands and repetition are the key...oh...and lots and lots and lots of patience! good luck....keep us posted.

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Old 10-20-2008, 11:53 PM   #14

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I agree with Furbilator training the dog to look at you is key. I train all of my dogs to do that through clicker training so on a walk if they start to pull if they turn and look they must loosen up on the leash which gets a "good girl/name" and no one gets an OK until the leash loosens and when they start it is on loose leash. Changing direction is good too. Try 4 borders on leash at one time. If I did not have a stop command and worked on loose leash reinforcement, I would not have my shoulders in their socket It takes consistent, firm, positive, long term training once they have the bad habit. Again, the prong may work but consistent training can actually cure the problem under any condition. I can actually get the dogs to stop off leash when it is time to be on leash.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:22 AM   #15
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Thanks so much to everyone for your good advice. I'm trying everything and will let you know how we go. As I'm now walking 2 retrievers I need them both to be well mannered on the lead, and Jett (4 years old) still needs a few pointers too. If they both decided to go in different directions I'd be in a lot of trouble! Thanks again for your input - it's much appreciated.
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:28 AM   #16
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Well I've been working on the pulling for over a month now, using many of your suggestions, and there is a definite improvement. The dogs are now used to abrupt stops, about turns and slow walking being incorporated into their walks, and they love all the extra treats that come from it. I've recently started doing sit/stays at the roadside, and Jazz is too busy waiting for her treat to come that she isn't lunging out at the passing traffic. So, one main problem left to deal with - pulling like demons when there's a goanna/cat/rabbit in the bushes. "Leave it" just isn't working, it's far too exciting, but I really need to get control over this before I'm pulled off my feet.

I also found an alternative to the Halti. It has a neck collar and a strap that goes in a figure of 8 round the muzzle, so doesn't pull at the mouth like a Halti seems to. So far it's working well. I really feel like I'm getting somewhere. Thanks K9 members!
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:19 PM   #17
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Keep working on the 'look at mommy' distraction type training and they will be less inclined to bolt after a cat/dog/bunny, etc. You can also try a temptation simulation. In a controlled environment, throw a treat or toy away from them and then walk by it while on leash. Every time they are distracted from you you give them a physical correction and leave it command. Repeat often until the are no longer interested in the treat or toy. At no time do you finally give the toy as it defeats the training of leaving something alone - not just now. Once the on leash works well, remove the leash and repeat the steps until the command only works and the dog doesn't leave your side. Couple this with the 'look at mommy' distraction and your dog will be too busy paying attention to you to even notice the other animal let alone respond to it.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:37 PM   #18
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We used a choker chain on our previous dog and it worked fine. I know some people are against them but I see no problem. It worked within days. Our dog understood very quickly that if he pulled it would be uncomfortable for him. I really don't see it as cruel. It just stopped his aggressive pulling and then after that the chain was always slack and I just needed one finger to hold on to the lead.
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:06 AM   #19
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Even though it is probably too late and you have made your purchase, I feel I must respond to your post and reply to many of the others who responded. Frankly, I am shocked and saddened that so many people recommended the prong collar and halti or gentle leader to help you with your pulling dog. How is it that, in a time when we care so much about the health and happiness of our dogs, in a time when we have invited them into our families and care for them with all of the love and kindness we give to our other family members, dog-owners, presumably people who love their dogs, can still recommend products that use pain and discomfort to train dogs? Would these same people also recommend pinching to teach children? Would they recommend using a product that causes friction burns and terrible neck sprains to help them control their toddlers on a walk in the park?

I imagine they would not. Why, then, do they recommend such action towards our dogs, especially when there are pain-free, healthy, and extremely effective products available? I have raised my dog on products made by a tiny little company called Larz Pet Gear. They make the most amazing products. Their collars and handles are all padded and their leashes are miraculous. They make them with a stretchy shockcord, but its isn't like one of thos silly bungee leashes. You actually buy these in a size specific to your dog's weight so that when you dog pulls, it kind of bounces him back to you. It doesn't hurt him because that cord absorbs all of the shock of the pull (like a shock absorber in your car). It takes that jerk off of your shoulder and arm, too - it is so comfortable. I can't tell you how incredible it is. They also have fabulous harnesses and hands-free systems.
So, if your dog hasn't stopped pulling or if you want to stop hurting him with a prong collar or halti, you really should check out their products. I think you can only buy them on their website - These are really great people, too. They will help you make sure you get the right product. They really care about dogs.
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:45 PM   #20
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what ever you use, you must get your dog to focus on you. i agree with everyone on here. when i first got joey OMG he pulled and pulled. i bought a choke collar and the person did not fit him correctly and it did not work. then our first trainer put a gentle leader on him and well that created sores on his nose and we had to stop using that and $200 later at the vets office for creams and ointments.

my arms were so sore. then we found our current trainer, who has been training dogs since 1973, told us that products not fitted correctly can injure the dog. he was surprised how i was shown to use the halter. first he said that the way i was using the halter i could have severly injured joey's neck. i told him that i was using it the way i was told. how did i know. then i pulled on the choke collar. he said it was way to small and i could have crushed his trachea.

then we put joey on a pinch. he told me when used correctly the pinch that they feel is like their moms correcting them when they were puppies in the litter.

i first started to long line him to get him to focus. we worked on that for a few weeks. joey was easily distracted and i had to work hard to get him to focus. once that was established we moved forward onto other things.
rest in peace my little Nikko. until we meet again. momma misses you and her heart aches every time she thinks of you, wishing you were still here to play with Joey and Elsa.
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