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Old 07-16-2008, 06:39 AM   #21

Join Date: Sep 2006
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One of my borders gets that way and I put him on a 20 foot rope and work him in the yard. If he does not come when called then I stomp on the rope and control his behavior. If the dog comes to you even after he should have - don't yell because then you are teaching not to come back but certainly don't give the treat or toy because then you are rewarding for coming when he chooses. Mine decided to do this at a recent herding lesson. I had taken him off his rope because I had not had to use it for almost a month and he wore his foot pads off and got one infected running on the hot ground so even in the yard, he will either come when called or be taken in the house and denied the fun of being in the big training yard. Timeout and denial of something they want also works on dogs. Good luck Glad to hear you are doing better. I am going to have the same problem soon. I just found out I have a major rotator cuff tear and it is 4 weeks in a sling and 3 months no lifting with border collies.
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:12 PM   #22
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Location: Waikiki, Perth, W Australia
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Best of Luck with the op K9.

The long Lunge lead is a great thing and makes controling him so much easier. He will come if he is tethered and comes straight to me and sits next to my left leg, The problem is mainly when he is untethered and decides he wants to do his own thing.

Was so funny tonight after work when I got home, Its been pouring down here and his tennnis bal was in a puddle in the back garden.He refused to go walk in the water and just circled it looking at me to go get it which I didnt as he wouldnt come to me he kept going the cirlce instead.

We dont let him inside as each time he has he has cocked his leg on the wall or lounge suite. He has a kennel undercover outside in the garage and he is guarding my Harley which he hates when I start it up. He does have a noise intollerance but in saying that most Red Clouds I am told are timid
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:40 AM   #23
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Location: Sydney N.S.W
Posts: 327
Positive reinforcement training is not bribing a dog. They have to work for their dinner, which can be used. Once they know what you want them to do, luring with the food, you lure with your hand signals only & reward from somewhere else. Gradually you can do the exercises with handsignals & praise only. Have a look at for lots of info, videos on everything you can think of pertaining to dogs.

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Old 07-19-2008, 04:13 PM   #24
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Thanks for the link some good reading there.
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:47 PM   #25
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Late to this, but I just wanted to say your dog is adorable. What a time to have an energetic young dog enter your life, when you have two broken legs! You're braver than I am. I'm sure he's a handfull, but both my monsters were shelter dogs, so most issues are workthroughable. Ooops, made up a word. Anyway, please persist - I hear kelpies can be wonderful dogs.

I understand your issue with the show/obedience training not providing the socialization you were looking for. With mine, they get a lot of their socialization through flyball and agility training. Maybe there are some clubs in your area that focus more on the dog sports (flyball, agility, frisbee or disc dog, dock jumping, scent hurdles, herding, search and rescue, etc) rather than show dog and obedience training? Even if the class itself doesn't have social time, maybe you could befriend your classmates and arrange doggie play dates?

My concern with dog parks is that (1) he would meet different dogs each time and so may not break the ice to play with them, and some of those dogs may have issues that aggrevate the problem and (2) at least in my area, dog parks usually mean a group of people standing around chatting ignoring their dogs, who run in circles and chase each other. This may not be a good setup if you are having recall and training issues. Dog parks can be great, it just depends on the culture of the people and dogs at the park. They can be really good for burning off energy.
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